Heritage
Collection

Launched in 2002, the DB1 monopusher chronograph was De Bethune’s first creation. It featured a classically elegant design inspired by the 1920s and 1930s, setting the foundation for the brand’s aesthetic codes.

The slender case, with a coaxial pusher integrated into its octagonal crown at 3 o’clock, matched the 42 mm diameter, offering a clear view of the dial. The hand-decorated dial displayed Roman numerals, a 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock, and a small seconds hand at 9 o’clock.

Blue accents, including a blued-steel chronograph hand, stood out against the silver guilloché background, highlighting De Bethune’s focus on legibility and light. The deltoid-shaped lugs hinted at future designs.

The DB1’s design emphasized aesthetic simplicity, marking the beginning of De Bethune’s artistic direction.

The DB3 is the most unusual model in the original collection, building on the design of the DB1 with a 42 mm case, ogive-shaped lugs, blued steel hands, silver guilloché, and blue Roman numerals. However, it breaks conventions by featuring a power reserve indicator at 12 o’clock—a yellow gold lens over a blued steel disc—and a dual-time display at 6 o’clock.

The DB8 monopusher chronograph reflects De Bethune’s relentless pursuit of technical and aesthetic excellence. Building on the foundation of its predecessor, the DB8 improves dial legibility by replacing Roman numerals with Arabic ones and introducing a larger 45-minute counter at 6 o’clock. The 2023 reissue features the in-house developed Calibre DB3000, which includes a 60-minute counter with an instantaneous jump for enhanced accuracy and clarity, showcasing 20 years of innovation and expertise by the Manufacture.

The DB12, launched during De Bethune’s first two years, marked the transition from monopusher to a double-pusher chronograph design. It features a classic layout with two large counters, a date display, and a refined, numerals-free dial emphasizing legibility with intricate guilloché patterns. The movement is based on the historic Venus 175 calibre, visible through a transparent caseback—a first for De Bethune. The DB12 has a thicker case (42 mm × 13 mm) in 18K gold and was the last chronograph to feature De Bethune’s original classic lugs until the 2023 DB8 reissue.

During two innovative years, De Bethune made significant technical advances, leading to the 2004 introduction of the DB15, Denis Flageollet’s first De Bethune calibre.

This watch featured a perpetual calendar and a large spherical moon-phase indicator at 12 o’clock, inspired by astronomical clocks and Leonardo da Vinci. The moon phase, displayed by a platinum and blued steel sphere against a starry sky, boasts remarkable accuracy, deviating only one day in 122 years. The curved blued steel hands glide over the sphere, a signature De Bethune design.

The DB15 also includes a date dial at 6 o’clock, and day and month apertures at 9 and 3 o’clock. Technically, it introduced innovations like the Titanium/platinum balance wheel-wheel for enhanced precision, a shock-absorbing triple pare-chute system, and a patented flat terminal curve balance-spring for stability. The self-regulating double barrel provided over a four-day power reserve, and the watch offered a world-first quick date-setting function via an intermediate crown position.

The DB15 marked a major technical milestone for De Bethune, blending tradition with cutting-edge innovation.

A year after the DB15, the DB17 was introduced in 2005, reflecting De Bethune’s commitment to innovation and precision. The DB17 featured a larger 43 mm case and bezel, with a redesigned dial for better legibility. The date, day, and month indicators were positioned at 6, 9, and 3 o’clock, respectively. The moon-phase indicator at 12 o’clock, with a platinum and blued steel sphere against a starry sky, was enhanced by sunburst guilloché and curved blued steel hands.

The DB17 shared the same movement as the DB15 but added a direct month correction and continued to incorporate De Bethune’s technical advancements, including the patented spherical moon-phase, triple pare-chute shock absorption, and an optimized Titanium/platinum balance wheel-wheel.

The DBS debuted at the first Only Watch auction in 2005, two years after being promised to Prince Albert of Monaco. The DBS was part of a trilogy (DBS, DBL, DBD) known for its unique horseshoe-shaped case, ogive-shaped lugs, and crown at 12 o’clock—echoing vintage pocket watches. Its innovative design featured articulated lugs for optimal wrist comfort and introduced De Bethune’s floating lugs.

The watch’s dial showcased the movement’s components, including micro-blasted and mirror-polished finishes, Côtes de Genève decoration, and a deltoid-shaped main bridge—a brand signature. Retro-futuristic elements included rocket-like hands, a bead-blasted outer ring with flame-blued hemispheres, and a moon-phase indicator at 6 o’clock. The solid caseback had a cut-out for a linear six-day power reserve display.

Powered by a hand-wound movement with De Bethune’s innovations, including a twin barrel, Titanium/platinum balance wheel-wheel, triple pare-chute system, and a spherical moon-phase accurate to one day in 122 years, the DBS sets a new standard in watchmaking design and marked the start of De Bethune’s exploration of shapes and materials.

The Digitale, launched in 2006, redefined traditional watchmaking with its sleek, contemporary design and minimalist aesthetic. Featuring the horseshoe-shaped case and ogive-shaped lugs introduced by the DBS, it offers optimal comfort with a crown at 12 o’clock. The dial, decorated with Côtes de Genève (typically used for movements), displays the calendar and time through Art Deco-style windows at 12 o’clock. The caseback reveals a starry sky in mirror-polished blued steel with gold inlays and a precise moon-phase indicator at 6 o’clock.

First introduced in 2006, the DB21 “Maxichrono” was born from Denis Flageollet’s clear vision of a reimagined chronograph. Simplifying the design was a complex task. By rethinking the chronograph’s structure and construction, De Bethune created an innovative and contemporary instrument. At its core, five precisely mounted hands on a single axis follow an intricate sequence of gears—a significant technical achievement. This streamlined system, with interdependent column wheels and independently resettable arbors, is operated by a single pusher at 6 o’clock, enhanced by De Bethune’s patented floating lugs for comfort and ease.

The DB25L marked the beginning of De Bethune’s classic watch collection, blending traditional craftsmanship with contemporary design. The round, drum-shaped case, featuring superimposed rings and slender, openworked lugs, showcases De Bethune’s technical and aesthetic expertise. The silver-toned, hand-guilloché dial enhances legibility with its radiating sectors and precise layout.

The DB25L is equipped with advanced features like a self-regulating twin barrel, a triple pare-chute system, and a Titanium/platinum balance wheel-wheel. Its standout feature is the spherical moon-phase display at 12 o’clock, with an accuracy of one day in 122 years. The flame-blued steel hands add to its refined elegance, making the DB25L a poetic yet technically advanced timepiece.

De Bethune reimagines the tourbillon, inspired by Abraham-Louis Breguet, to create a modern wrist worn regulator. Designed for the dynamic movements of the wrist, De Bethune’s tourbillon is made of ultra-light silicon-titanium, weighing just 0.18 grams and rotating every 30 seconds at 36,000 vibrations per hour. With 63 intricate parts, it remains one of the lightest in the industry.

Master Watchmaker Denis Flageollet revived the tradition of classic regulators with a central “jumping seconds” hand and double lever mechanism, offering a refined, mechanical display of time. The tourbillon’s beauty is hidden on the watch’s back, reserved for true connoisseurs, alongside a blued titanium dial with gold stars and a silver ring that will gracefully patina over time.

The DB28, a unique timepiece developed for Only Watch 2009 and a worthy successor to the DBS, introduced an iconic collection with bold aesthetic codes. Awarded the “Aiguille d’Or” in 2011, the DB28 features a mirror-polished titanium case and a finely decorated movement, celebrating its win with a limited edition.

The titanium case, with its Belle Époque-inspired crown, and floating lugs provide both comfort and modern design. The dial showcases artisanal finishes, with a blend of polished and matte surfaces that change with movement.

Equipped with DB Calibre 2115, it incorporates cutting-edge technology, including a silicon/palladium balance-wheel and a triple pare-chute system. Its moon phase display, accurate to within one day every 122 years, highlights the watch’s precision and technical prowess. The DB28 epitomizes De Bethune’s blend of refined style, innovation, and watchmaking heritage.

In 2013, David Zanetta and Denis Flageollet combined traditional craftsmanship with cutting-edge science to create the Skybridge, a pinnacle of aesthetic and technical precision from De Bethune.

The DB28’s round, mirror-polished titanium case with floating lugs pays homage to classic pocket watches while showcasing modern design. The Skybridge features a striking blue dial with reflections reminiscent of the brand’s past creations, and a starry sky crafted in blued titanium with intricate, handcrafted details.

The moon-phase display is highlighted by an arrow-shaped bridge, and the polished, flame-blued steel hands traverse a constellation marked by white gold and diamond stars, adding timeless depth to the design.