DB25Vxs Silver Moon

Return of a great classic

De Bethune refines the DB25L by unveiling the DB25Vxs Silver Moon in a pared-down version featuring a case trimmed to 40 mm, a reconfigured dial and an optimised movement. Inspired by the tall-case regulator-type clocks, this modernised version combines 18th century heritage with the Manufacture’s key innovations, notably including the spherical moon.

Alongside its most daring creations, De Bethune upholds its commitment to the grand horological tradition by expanding its DB25 collection. The DB25L launched in 2009 has established itself through a blend of classic elegance and refined design. This spirit now returns to the forefront with the DB25Vxs Silver Moon, an evolved version of the model.

Traditional inspiration, contemporary interpretation

Ferdinand Berthoud, Antide Janvier, Julien Le Roy… Ever since De Bethune’s inception, 18th century fine watchmaking has proved an inexhaustible source of inspiration for the Manufacture’s founder and master watchmaker Denis Flageollet.

The spherical moon, a seminal innovation

Launched in 2004, the first watch equipped with a spherical moon phase was the DB15, driven by the first calibre entirely developed and produced by the young independent Manufacture. Above and beyond the many technical innovations featured in its movement, this model surprised observers with a 12 o’clock moon-phase display distinguished by its architecture and dimensionality that were unprecedented for a wristwatch of that era.

Inspired by the long tradition of astronomical clocks, Denis Flageollet also paid homage to Leonardo da Vinci, whose sketch appears in the Madrid Codex.

Patented in 2004, this technical innovation enables intuitive reading of the moon phases, mirroring human observation of the sky. A sphere in palladium and flame-blued steel – crafted using a traditional spirit-lamp method – emerges from a blued titanium sky studded with gold stars. A high-precision mechanism requiring a mere one lunar-day correction every 112 years serves to reproduce the Moon’s various movements.

Classic dial, contemporary illumination

A slight curvature borrowed from tall-case regulator-type clocks – another nod to 18th century fine watchmaking – frames the dial’s starry sky design, finely adorned with barleycorn motifs arranged in spirals and delicately silvered. The sculpted volumes and handcrafted finishes create an infinite array of shimmering reflections and light effects, resulting in a lively, vibrant dial.

Within this confined space, the classic rose gold hands are hand-curved to glide over the spherical moon, adopting the brand’s iconic curvaceous shape.

The hand-guilloché dial, Breguet-style hands, spherical moon and starry sky are all classic references clearly asserting the watch’s modern design through both their composition and their execution.

A masterfully geometric case

Particularly lightweight thanks to its mirror-polished grade 5 titanium case, the watch harmoniously combines a 40 mm diameter with a discreet bezel affording a beautiful view of the dial. The slender, rounded ogival-shaped lugs adorned with openwork detailing highlight its sloping geometry: a design that emphasises the roundness of the watch and hugs the wrist.

A calibre designed for performance

In addition to its patented spherical moon phase mechanism, the DB25Vxs Silver Moon is powered by a hand-wound movement – finely hand-finished with Côtes De Bethune, mirror-polished steel and blued polished titanium – visible through the caseback via a sapphire crystal featuring a double anti-reflective coating. This high-performance mechanism incorporates the Manufacture’s latest technical innovations.

An optimised balance-wheel  

The heart of the watch beats at 28,800 vibrations per hour and its reliability is notably enhanced by a titanium/white gold balance-wheel achieving an optimal “inertia-to-mass” ratio, improving precision timekeeping. Optimised for enhanced air penetration, its construction combines a lightweight titanium core with peripheral weights in denser white gold in order to improve rate stability across various disturbances, temperature variations and changes in position.

Power reserve and reliability

A self-adjusting twin barrel ensures a steady supply of energy and ensures an over six-day power reserve. Featuring a balance-spring with a flat terminal curve, a silicon escape-wheel and a shock-absorbing device, Calibre DB2105V5 – like all movements from the Maison – is designed to adapt to modern-day wearing conditions as well as to resist magnetic fields, shocks and accelerations, all while maintaining an unwavering commitment to precision and reliability.

A glimpse of things to come

Like all De Bethune creations, the DB25Vxs Silver Moon crystallises at a given moment the very best of the Manufacture from both technical and aesthetic standpoints. It is part of a continuously evolving process in which each timepiece embodies the watchmaking of today and fuels that of tomorrow.

“My creative work is in a state of perpetual evolution, rooted in our in-house codes. Every De Bethune is a glimpse of the next. It invites and inspires the next timepiece.”

Denis Flageollet, founder and master watchmaker

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