DB1 Monopusher Chronograph
The DB1 Monopoussoir chronograph, De Bethune's first creation in 2002, adopts a classic design inspired by the 1920s-1930s.
Its thin case incorporates a coaxial pusher at 3 o'clock, and its hand-decorated dial with Roman numerals emphasizes legibility and elegance. Touches of blue, like the blued steel hand, contrast with the silver guilloché background. The deltoid shape of the lugs, foreshadowing future designs, will become a recurring feature.
This model marks the beginning of an artistic direction focused on aesthetic sobriety.
Launch Date: 2002 / Production: 49
DB8 Monopusher Chronograph
The DB8 monopusher chronograph reflects De Bethune's relentless pursuit of technical and aesthetic excellence. Building on the foundation of its predecessor, the DB8 improves dial legibility by replacing Roman numerals with Arabic ones and introducing a larger 45-minute counter at 6 o'clock. The 2023 reissue features the in-house developed Calibre DB3000, which includes a 60-minute counter with an instantaneous jump for enhanced accuracy and clarity, showcasing 20 years of innovation and expertise by the Manufacture.
Launch Date: 2002
DB12 Chronograph
The DB12, launched during De Bethune's first two years, marked the transition from monopusher to a double-pusher chronograph design. It features a classic layout with two large counters, a date display, and a refined, numerals-free dial emphasizing legibility with intricate guilloché patterns. The movement is based on the historic Venus 175 calibre, visible through a transparent caseback—a first for De Bethune. The DB12 has a thicker case (42 mm × 13 mm) in 18K gold and was the last chronograph to feature De Bethune's original classic lugs until the 2023 DB8 reissue.
Launch Date: 2003
DB21 Maxichrono
First introduced in 2006, the DB21 "Maxichrono" was born from Denis Flageollet’s clear vision of a reimagined chronograph. Simplifying the design was a complex task. By rethinking the chronograph's structure and construction, De Bethune created an innovative and contemporary instrument. At its core, five precisely mounted hands on a single axis follow an intricate sequence of gears—a significant technical achievement. This streamlined system, with interdependent column wheels and independently resettable arbors, is operated by a single pusher at 6 o’clock, enhanced by De Bethune's patented floating lugs for comfort and ease.
Launch Date: 2006
DB3 GMT
The DB3 is the most unusual model in the original collection, building on the design of the DB1 with a 42 mm case, ogive-shaped lugs, blued steel hands, silver guilloché, and blue Roman numerals. However, it breaks conventions by featuring a power reserve indicator at 12 o'clock—a yellow gold lens over a blued steel disc—and a dual-time display at 6 o'clock.
Launch Date: 2002
DBS
The DBS was introduced at the Only Watch auction in 2005, two years after being promised to Prince Albert of Monaco. Part of a trilogy (DBS, DBL, DBD), it is distinguished by its horseshoe-shaped case, ogival lugs and 12 o'clock crown, reminiscent of antique pocket watches.
The dial showcases the movement with meticulous finishing and a moon-phase indicator at 6 o'clock. Its manual movement includes innovations such as a double barrel and spherical moon phase. The DBS sets a new standard in watch design and marks the beginning of De Bethune's exploration of shapes and materials.
Launch Date: 2005 / Production:183 pieces
DBD Digitale
The Digitale, launched in 2006, redefined traditional watchmaking with its sleek, contemporary design and minimalist aesthetic. Featuring the horseshoe-shaped case and ogive-shaped lugs introduced by the DBS, it offers optimal comfort with a crown at 12 o'clock. The dial, decorated with Côtes de Genève (typically used for movements), displays the calendar and time through Art Deco-style windows at 12 o’clock. The caseback reveals a starry sky in mirror-polished blued steel with gold inlays and a precise moon-phase indicator at 6 o'clock.
Launch Date: 2006
DB15 Perpetual Calendar
In 2004, De Bethune marked a turning point with the DB15, which introduced Denis Flageollet's first caliber. Equipped with a perpetual calendar and spherical moon-phase indicator, the watch was inspired by astronomical clocks. This innovative model incorporates a platinum and blued steel sphere representing the Moon, evolving with extreme precision, while the curved hands fly over this complex display, an aesthetic detail that would become emblematic.
The DB15 was also a field of technical innovation, with features such as a titanium/platinum balance for greater precision and a shock-resistant system known as triple pare-chute. A revolutionary patented balance-spring and double barrel guarantee an autonomy of over 4 days. Not only did this model consolidate De Bethune's reputation for watchmaking expertise, but two decades later it continues to demonstrate its technical sophistication and reliability.
Launch Date: 2004
DB17 Perpetual Calendar
A year after the DB15, the DB17 was introduced in 2005, reflecting De Bethune’s commitment to innovation and precision. The DB17 featured a larger 43 mm case and bezel, with a redesigned dial for better legibility. The date, day, and month indicators were positioned at 6, 9, and 3 o'clock, respectively. The moon-phase indicator at 12 o'clock, with a platinum and blued steel sphere against a starry sky, was enhanced by sunburst guilloché and curved blued steel hands.
The DB17 shared the same movement as the DB15 but added a direct month correction and continued to incorporate De Bethune’s technical advancements, including the patented spherical moon-phase, triple pare-chute shock absorption, and an optimized titanium/platinum balance-wheel.
Launch Date: 2005
DB25L Moon Phase
The DB25L marked the beginning of De Bethune's classic watch collection, blending traditional craftsmanship with contemporary design. The round, drum-shaped case, featuring superimposed rings and slender, openworked lugs, showcases De Bethune's technical and aesthetic expertise. The silver-toned, hand-guilloché dial enhances legibility with its radiating sectors and precise layout.
The DB25L is equipped with advanced features like a self-regulating twin barrel, a triple pare-chute system, and a titanium/platinum balance-wheel. Its standout feature is the spherical moon-phase display at 12 o'clock, with an accuracy of one day in 122 years. The flame-blued steel hands add to its refined elegance, making the DB25L a poetic yet technically advanced timepiece.
Launch Date: 2010 / 86 pieces since 2010 all variations
DB25T Regulator Tourbillon
De Bethune reimagines the tourbillon, inspired by Abraham-Louis Breguet, to create a modern wrist worn regulator. Designed for the dynamic movements of the wrist, De Bethune's tourbillon is made of ultra-light silicon-titanium, weighing just 0.18 grams and rotating every 30 seconds at 36,000 vibrations per hour. With 63 intricate parts, it remains one of the lightest in the industry.
Master Watchmaker Denis Flageollet revived the tradition of classic regulators with a central "jumping seconds" hand and double lever mechanism, offering a refined, mechanical display of time. The tourbillon's beauty is hidden on the watch's back, reserved for true connoisseurs, alongside a blued titanium dial with gold stars and a silver ring that will gracefully patina over time.
DB28 Aiguille d’Or
The DB28, worthy heir to the DBS and a unique piece for Only Watch 2009, embodies De Bethune's avant-garde spirit. This limited edition pays tribute to the DB28 watch, winner of the Aiguille d'Or in 2011, celebrating its iconic design and technical innovations. With its mirror-polished titanium case, pocket-watch-inspired crown at 12 o'clock, and patented mobile cradles, it combines comfort and technical sophistication.
Equipped with the DB2115 caliber, the watch benefits from innovations such as a self-regulating double barrel and a silicon/palladium balance. Its moon-phase display, accurate to 1 day every 122 years, testifies to the company's technical excellence. With its refined handcrafted finishes, the DB28 embodies the modern expression of De Bethune's watchmaking art, while paying tribute to its victory at the Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève.
Launch Date: 2012 / Production 50 pieces
DB28 Skybridge
In 2013, ancestral know-how and the latest scientific advances are combined. Inspired by pocket watches with its round shape and crown at 12 o'clock, it features an ultra-light, mirror-polished titanium case and mobile cradles, underscoring its modern, innovative character.
The dial, evoking a starry sky in polished and blued titanium, reflects meticulously hand-crafted details. The moon-phase reading, accentuated by an arrow-shaped bridge, and the white gold and diamond stars that dot the dial, give this piece a unique celestial depth.
Launch Date: 2013 / Production 50 pieces